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Ankarsrum Original Review

This atypical machine requires an adapted skillset to bring out its impressive capabilities
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Ankarsrum Original Review (The Ankarsrum uses a separate bowl and attachments for mixing. Here the twin beaters rotate around the central drive...)
The Ankarsrum uses a separate bowl and attachments for mixing. Here the twin beaters rotate around the central drive shaft for triple whipping action.
Credit: Jenna Ammerman
Price:  $800 List
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Manufacturer:   Ankarsrum
Nick Miley
By Nick Miley ⋅ Senior Review Editor  ⋅  July 20, 2020
Contributions From: Michelle Powell
52
OVERALL
SCORE
  • Ease of Use - 30% 5.0
  • Mixing - 30% 2.0
  • Whipping - 25% 7.0
  • Kneading - 15% 9.0

Our Verdict

In the world of kitchen appliances, the Ankarsrum Original has an unconventional design, and it requires the user to learn some new skills to unlock its benefits. This stylish workhorse has a 7.4-quart bowl that can accommodate large batches of rising dough, while the kneading roller and powerful motor can work the bowl's contents with little effort. However, the problem with focusing on bread making is that the other functions of the mixer are not fleshed out. The machine requires a secondary bowl and componentry for whipping and the like. While its triplicate whip mixing action is effective, the plastic components are easily overstressed by the powerful 600-watt motor. The downsides of this machine will be a turn-off to a generalist, but baking specialists will find them to be a boon. If you mainly want a mixer for baking, you might consider this model paired with a model from our hand mixer review.
REASONS TO BUY
Unique dough roller
Cavernous bowl
Powerful motor
REASONS TO AVOID
Expensive
Long learning process
Primarily focused on baking applications

Our Analysis and Test Results

This stand mixer stands out from the others as the bowl rotates on the stand while the attachments remain stationary. The primary attachment is a dough roller connected to an adjustable arm. As a result, the kneading action occurs without the motor bearing much of the burden. If whipping is your goal, this machine employs two whisks that circle the bowl in a triple whipping action. Unfortunately, this machine isn't easy to learn how to use, even if you've used other standing mixers in the past.

ankarsrum original - the ankarsrum original is a beautiful machine that requires some...
The Ankarsrum Original is a beautiful machine that requires some experimentation to bring out its full potential.   Credit: Jenna Ammerman

Ease of Use


While the Ankarsrum Original shines for its user interface and cleanliness, it performs average overall in terms of user-friendliness.

The main appeal of the Ankarsrum Original is that it has a huge open-top bowl and the power to mix large quantities of dough. This ample space results in fewer spills and quicker clean-up. As far as sturdiness is concerned, the main unit and metal bowl are bombproof. However, the plastic mixing bowl is somewhat flimsy and distorts when mixing heavy ingredients, and more concerning are the plastic gears on the whisk attachments that are prone to failure under heavy loads. One shredded and became unusable. The base is heavy enough to stay put, and at 85.5 dBA, it is pretty loud by comparison to others in the class.

ankarsrum original - the unique dough roller and scraper are fixed while the bowl rotates...
The unique dough roller and scraper are fixed while the bowl rotates to provide the kneading action. This unconventional design on the Ankarsrum Original will challenge cooks used to traditional stand mixers.   Credit: Jenna Ammerman

Two key findings in the overall user experience assessment focused on the bowl/attachment gap and noise. First, the Ankarsrum Original's attachments fit wonderfully and require little spatula work from the user. This outcome is mainly due to the unique and effective sidewall scraper fitted to the main bowl. Conversely, at 85.5 dBA, this is one of the loudest machines in the class.

Mixing


Our set of mixing tests involved mixing ingredients of a cowboy cookie recipe, frosting for cakes, and incorporating all the ingredients for pizza dough. Kneading was assessed separately (see below). Given the large size of the bowl and the untraditional mixing method it employs, the machine did not perform well. For example, our pizza dough recipe calls for mixing with the dough hook, and the unit's unique dough hook does not perform well in such applications.

Another issue with this machine is that the manufacturer does not provide suggested methods to achieve desired outcomes. Most of the other models in our review provide this invaluable information. Proper usage of the Ankarsrum is not intuitive, and the lack of guidance from the manufacturer requires experimentation to release the full capabilities of this unorthodox machine.

Whipping


Whipping is one of those tasks that is hard to do by hand, and the Ankarsrum's powerful motor and continuous speed-setting dial promote high-quality whipping. The mixing system uses two-wire whisks that rotate individually on their axes while orbiting the bowl. This action whips up egg whites and cream to splendid effect. However, this action requires you to bear the second bowl and the mixer attachments.

Kneading


The main appeal of the Ankarsrum Original is that it has a huge bowl and the power to mix and knead large quantities of dough. The ample space leaves plenty of room for the dough to rise in the bowl or double recipes. Unlike other models in the class with smaller bowl capacities, the Original allows the dough to rise in place and be kneaded periodically with the turn of a dial. The whole system is pretty sweet when one gets the hang of it.

The kneading metric relied solely on the machine's ability to work pizza dough, though we also made sourdough and sandwich bread. The latter two doughs really showed why this machine has been a standby for serious bakers for so long. The Ankarsrum Original's unique roller arm allows more dough to be worked in a fashion similar to manual kneading.

ankarsrum original - the ankarsrum uses a separate bowl and attachments for mixing. here...
The Ankarsrum uses a separate bowl and attachments for mixing. Here the twin beaters rotate around the central drive shaft for triple whipping action.   Credit: Jenna Ammerman

Should You Buy the Ankarsrum Original?


In the world of stand mixers, the Ankarsrum is a bit of a black sheep. The mixing action is produced by rotating the bowl instead of the mixing attachment. The primary attachments connect on an arm that swivels across the bowl opening so that you can position the attachments to accommodate a range of needs. In this configuration, the mixer shines. Unfortunately, many of the mixing needs of the home cook require the use of a second bowl and attachments. As such, we see this machine as a specialty item that will appeal to a narrow group of dedicated home bakers.

What Other Stand Mixers Should You Consider?


The Ankarsrum Original is a costly kitchen appliance. If it fits your needs as a baker and you're willing to learn its nonstandard uses, then it may be worth the money. But most at-home bakers will require a more versatile mixer, like the award-winning KitchenAid Artisan Stand Mixer. We also think the Aucma 6.5qt is an attractive alternative to these high-end models. Overall, it performs better than the Ankarsrum Original, and it's significantly less money.

Nick Miley and Michelle Powell