The 6 Best 3D Printers of 2024

Best Overall 3D Printer

Bambu Lab P1P

Build Area: 256mm x 256mm x 256mm | Max Extruder Temperature: 300°C

The Bambu Lab P1P has just about everything we could want in an FDM printer. It ranks near the top of every metric we test for, and while it's a bit spendy, it's more affordable than other high-end models sharing similar bells and whistles. Our reviewer writes, “I appreciate how simple it is to set up and start printing.” The 300°C max extrusion temp is higher than average, allowing for greater versatility of materials. Perhaps most importantly, it produces prints of the best quality we've seen from an FDM option, rivaled only by resin printers like the Anycubic Photon Mono 2. In fact, it works so well that after testing, it became our in-house printer. One member of our team raves, “It's a total workhorse, and rarely do we have any issues with it.” But the truly flashy news on the P1P is with the upgrades and add-ons: an on-board camera, available multi-filament changer, and a frame that accepts a huge variety of add-ons like custom enclosure walls. These features and more are supplemented by an active community of fanatic fellow Bambu users via a dedicated forum.

Bambu Lab is a relatively new player in the 3D printer market and is already known for its stellar print and build quality as a brand. However, there are a few areas where there is room for improvement. First of all, we don't love that it only works with proprietary slicer software, although it does work quite well in our experience. Secondly, while we haven't had many problems with the printer, we wish there was a better support line in case anything ever pops up. We couldn't find a US-based call number, and our reviewer writes that “the E-mail support's average response time to my emails was not great, I had to wait 2-3 days for a reply most of the time.” However, for a machine that rarely has any problems, we found this to be less of an issue than with some other models. Believe it or not, this is their mid-range option, and it is quite a big price commitment. So, if you have a budget that requires a bit more frugality, take a look at the Bambu Lab A1 mini or our Editor's Choice Runner Up AnkerMake M5C (up next). However, this printer is one that works well from the start, and thanks to available upgrades, it is almost guaranteed that you won't outgrow it, making the Lab P1P a good long-term investment for those who can swing it.

Read more: Bambu Lab P1P review

Best Runner Up 3D Printer

AnkerMake M5C

Build Area: 220mm x 220mm x 250mm | Max Extruder Temperature: 300°C

Ostensibly the little brother in the Anker lineup of 3D printers, the AnkerMake M5C impressed us enough that we felt compelled to rank it higher than initially expected. Ultimately, the M5C feels more refined than its 'big brother' the M5. Yes, it is technically a trimmed-down version, but the trimming was done in a thoughtful way that reduces cost while showcasing excellent execution of what remains. One of our testers notes, “I appreciated its simplicity, especially when I was testing out a new print design.” Considering the M5C is technically a 'budget' option (competing directly with smaller products like the Entina Tina2 or the simpler tech of resin options like the Mars 4), we have to give props for steadily respectable quality prints — especially in the accuracy and dimensional stability departments. The initial setup of the machine is quick and easy, and other hardware specs are near excellent. The removable print bed is textured for great adhesion, with just the right amount of flexibility to allow for easy removal, and the 300°C max extruder temp is most impressive at this price point, meaning specialty materials are in play at a low investment.

While the 220mm x 220mm x 250mm build volume is among the largest of our lineup, in practice, we were only able to achieve 87% of the advertised full X/Y dimensions. This is not uncommon among 3D printers, but it is still a bit disappointing. We also found it interesting where AnkerMade chose to make cuts: no touch screen, no camera, no multicolor spool manager, no enclosure. These are certainly not necessary, but most high-performing competitors have at least some of those features. The buyer looking for a flashy machine to grab automatic time-lapses for their social media account may be better served looking elsewhere, for example, the P1P and M5, and even the wee A1 mini). The M5C is an FDM printer for the masses. So, while some people may be dissuaded by the lack of features, in our opinion, AnkerMake made the most of the trade-off, and budget-conscious users who want top-quality prints will be pleased. Our reviewer sums it up, “I think Anker nailed it; focus on what needs to work well and scrap the rest.”

Read more: AnkerMake M5C review

Best Value Resin Printer

Anycubic Photon Mono 2

Build Area: 165mm x 143mm x 89mm | UV Resin Type: water-washable, standard, ABS-like, plant-based, etc.

The Anycubic Photon Mono 2 is a relatively small resin-style printer with an entry-level price that will be appreciated by those wanting to level up their prints. As good as FDM printers have gotten in recent years, they can't compete with the amazingly intricate models created by the likes of a printer with UV-cured resin technology, and if hyper-fine print details are an absolute requirement for you, then bringing home a product like the Mono2 is a no brainer. Our reviewer writes, “I was hard-pressed to find any flaws.” Still an additive process, the print is instead built upside down in a vat of goopy resin, cured layer by layer with UV light, and boy, does the process make for some nice prints. Seriously, for details like hair, scales, tiny fabric folds, etc., you're going to be really happy with the Mono 2. The secret is the 6.6" 4K+ (4,096 x 2,560px) mono LCD screen controlling the resin cure. This means you'll have XY pixel resolution of 35μm (microns) — about a third the width of a human hair! As good as this sounds, surprisingly, it is nowhere close to industry-leading; the Elegoo Mars 4 boasts a 9K resolution capability. However, it has an elevated price to match.

Resin printers still have an advantage over FDM in print quality, but that does come at a cost. Resin is sticky and smelly and requires labor-intensive post-processing to clean and cure your prints. This is a process you will want to think twice about committing to, and if you can get away with FDM prints, you'll save yourself a lot of work in the long run. Additionally, the build area of the Photon Mono 2 is much smaller than average, at just 165mm x 143mm x 89mm, compared with the 256mm × 256mm × 256mm of the Bambu Lab P1P. On this note, our reviewer said, “I am sure that intricate prints will never be a problem; that said, size (and material cost) might be.” You will be limited to making very small designs, but even at very small sizes, we think you'll still be impressed by the level of detail that is achievable. The bottom line is if your needs are super-detailed models for tabletop gaming or prototyping, the Anycubic Photon Mono 2 is a fantastic value model to achieve just that.

Read more: Anycubic Photon Mono 2 review

Best Value FDM Printer

Entina Tina2

Build Area: 100mm x 120mm x 100mm| Max Extruder Temperature: 245°C

If you're brand new to the world of 3D printing and not sure you're ready to commit to the steep price tag that can come with the hobby, the Entina Tina2 is your best bet. It's also a great way to share a love of STEM with younger generations. Our reviewer writes, “I love that Entina offers a great way to get your kid involved. I think setup alone would be a good learning experience.” Transparently designed as a machine for kids and beginners, we have great things to say about the tiny Tina 2, even for those who have some experience in printing but need to stay budget-conscious. Similar to the AnkerMake M5C, it strikes a good balance of function and cost by removing 'unnecessary' features that are more or less standard on most products these days without cutting into the bone. The max extruder temp of 245°C is one of the lowest in our tested lineup, but considering the target audience, this makes sense.

However, it's not all rainbows and sunshine. With print dimensions of 100mm x 120mm x 100mm, the build volume is smaller even than most technologically limited resin printer options. This machine is made to print toys and nick-nacks, giving a creative outlet to the STEM-curious little one in your life. You won't find the best print quality here, but maybe you simply don't need it. A giraffe figurine is a giraffe figurine all the same, no matter if you can feel a little texture from the build lines. If this sounds a little too simple for you, though, the Creality Ender 3 is another popular low-cost option, and the Bambu Lab A1 mini would also be a good option to consider. But for what it is, the Entina Tina2 is a fantastic value, combining good (not great) performance with top-notch support assets and stellar ease of use.

Read more: Entina Tina2 review

Best for Beginners

AnkerMake M5

Build Area: 235mm x 235mm x 250mm | Max Extruder Temperature: 260°C

AnkerMake, another newish brand making a big splash, is an off-shoot of established charging gadget maker Anker. The impressive AnkerMake M5 was their flagship offering and, in many ways, is still superior to the younger brother M5C. The bottom line is that the M5 does lots of things well, and it has from the beginning. It's insanely easy to set up, has super fast print speeds, and has some eye-catching features. We love the video capabilities, so we can get cool time-lapses of the build process, but more importantly, so we can remotely monitor progress. The M5 gets extra consideration as the customer support for everything from setup, part replacement, and troubleshooting is second to none. Before contacting the company directly, we went through the setup videos and FAQs on their website, and our reviewer wrote, “I was left with the feeling that if you have a problem, AnkerMake wants you to get the help you need.” We call the M5 out as being a fantastic beginner printer, but we think its capabilities will keep you satisfied even as you become more advanced. There is value in spades here, considering the top-notch user experience at all levels.

The 260°C max extruder temp is on the lower end of the scale compared to other printers, which limits the range of materials you can use. So, we do wish it were capable of higher extruder temps, but a printer with an enclosure chassis is needed for any specialty filaments to run successfully anyway. The P1P is going to be your best bet there. While we pin this as a good option for beginners, we also acknowledge that the price is not necessarily beginner-friendly. Cost can be an important consideration, so do know the FlashForge Adventurer 5M and extra simple Tina2 are also very easy to use, but more affordable. But if you like the extra video and touchscreen features and appreciate the idea of excellent customer support, the M5 is a good first buy.

Read more: AnkerMake M5 review

Best Entry to Multicolor

Bambu Lab A1 mini

Build Area: 180mm x 180mm x 180mm | Max Extruder Temperature: 300°C

The Bambu Lab A1 mini is a relatively small 3D printer, but don't let looks fool you, it is a powerhouse in a small package. When compared with the P1P, the A1 mini is another beast entirely. The consumer should immediately note the cantilevered-style structure (a single vertical pillar) vs. the cube-like CoreXY build on the P1P. The overall simpler build of the A1 mini gave us pause initially. We worried it would be less stable, potentially leading to more wobble and print quality issues at higher speeds. But nope. Any issues we found were not inherent from the composition, but mainly from extruder flow. This results in issues with spanning gaps and steeper overhang angles among other things, which can be largely curtailed with some fine-tuning of your Slicer settings. Thankfully, an extensive support network, including additional support videos and a community-led wiki, can help make those tweaks a reality. Lastly, the A1 mini is exceptionally user-friendly. The initial build time took us only 11 minutes, and then another 10-ish minutes to add on the option AMS system, which allows you to keep 4 rolls of filament at the ready for multi-colored prints. According to our reviewer, “This feature alone would make the A1 mini one of my top considerations out of our entire tested lineup.”

The cantilevered design that we pointed out above is likely a cost-cutting measure along with optimization for multicolor print purging. However, a side effect is a necessary size reduction as well. That may not be an issue for most users, but be aware that the full 180mm x 180mm x 180mm build area of the A1 mini is just 34.7% of what the bigger P1P is capable of. There are other options in this price range with larger build volumes, too, like either of the Ankermake products or the Adventurer 5M. All that said, the reason most buyers will consider the A1 mini is for the multicolor AMS Lite (Automatic Material System) add-on. We purchased the AMS separately as part of the combo, but buying the printer alone will significantly lower the cost. The mini is optimized for multicolor printing, with a purge wiper built directly on the end of the main arm, and for anyone looking to launch their multicolor journey, this is surely the best starting point.

Read more: Bambu Lab A1 mini review

Compare Products

Compare select up to 5 products to compare

	Score	Product	Price
	83	Bambu Lab P1P Best Overall 3D Printer	$699
	81	AnkerMake M5C Best Runner Up 3D Printer	$300
	78	AnkerMake M5 Best for Beginners	$699
	75	Bambu Lab A1 mini Best Entry to Multicolor	$459
	68	FlashForge Adventurer 5M	$399
	65	Anycubic Photon Mono 2 Best Value Resin Printer	$209
	65	Prusa MK4	$1,099
	60	Entina Tina2 Best Value FDM Printer	$200
	58	Creality Ender-3	$189
	56	Elegoo Mars 4	$250
	53	Elegoo Neptune 4 Pro	$300

How We Test 3D Printers

First and foremost, we strive to test printers at a standard that can be repeated and used to directly compare multiple generations of product releases, price points, and technologies. We selected overarching metrics based on the most important aspects a prospective buyer may be interested in. Further testing criteria within each metric is based on the most common features found in today's printers, and evaluated with the same tools and techniques across the board.

Our testing is divided across four key rating metrics:

• Print Quality (40% of overall score weighting)

• Ease of Use (30% weighting)

• Print Capabilities (20% weighting)

• Support (10% weighting)

After an exhaustive search, we settled on a specific set of 3D print models selected for their ability to test important aspects of Print Quality. These standard prints were followed by a couple of complex prints, which are not formally scored, to show off a real-world example of how far you can push the limits. A printer's Ease of Use score is derived from a few different tests, including an evaluation of the setup process, an assessment of the recommended slicer software, and other features like connection method, display screen and menu, heated bed, and self-leveling program. The Print Capabilities metric mostly concerns the evaluation of specs like build volume and extruder temp, with comments on any add-ons or upgrades that set a machine apart from the rest. Finally, Support looks at the standard customer support methods, online videos and other information available, as well as product warranties. For a deeper breakdown, take a look under the hood of our test procedures.

Why Trust GearLab

Our lead tester Graham Faulknor and lead reviewer Kyle Hameister both have extensive expertise with 3D printers — through school, careers, and as a personal hobby. Graham is a Senior Review Analyst here at GearLab and is infatuated with 3D printing. Utilizing his degree in Mechanical Engineering from the University of Colorado, poking, prodding, and crafting elaborate test rigs comes as second nature these days. Even between rounds of 3D Printer testing, Graham keeps our favorite printer, the lab's default P1P, running at a consistent hum in the background, whipping up custom jigs, stands, and tool scaffolding for whatever lineup of products happens to be in the lab that week. He also loves using his 3D printer to make little toys and gadgets for his son.

Aside from testing and reviewing gear, Review Editor Kyle Hameister works as Head of Product at a specialty furniture OEM where a beloved older 3D printer (thankfully NOT the notoriously finicky original MakerBot) cranks out small prototypes and emergency parts. When not in the office, Kyle pulls from his experience gained in the field and through his Industrial Design degree from Metropolitan State College of Denver and is happy as a clam tinkering in his shop or working on a variety of GearLab categories.

How to Choose a 3D Printer

As is often the case with relatively new technologies, the 3D printer market advances with a speed beyond most categories we have our hands in. Many of the patents awarded in the late 80's, 90s, and 2000's have expired, and much of the tech originally run in larger industrial printers is being adapted for consumer-level goods. New manufacturers all over the world have entered the market in recent years with an immediate high-level of polish evident in their products.

What Level of Detail Do I Need?

This answer to this question has traditionally been a clear indicator as to which of the two main types of hobbyist 3D printers a consumer should go for. For model makers and dungeon masters who value incredible detail and precision in more delicate pieces, Resin-based printers were typically (and to a large degree still are) the way to go. This process tends to be quite involved, messier, and limiting in size, however, and for these reasons, most other users go for the far more popular FDM-based printers. This process tends to be easier to run and process, leaving behind a lot of the hassle that comes with a resin printer. The kicker is that pure surface quality and detail take a noticeable back seat to what resin can produce. However, that gap is rapidly closing. These days, some of the better-rated FDM printers provide some stiff competition for resin-based models.

What Other Features Interest Me?

Beyond the outright performance of a machine, many users will also have their eye on a specific specialty feature, capability, or trait. And the list of features manufacturers are including is ever-growing. Self-leveling programs and removable print beds used to be noteworthy upgrades 3-5 years ago but are now so common it raises eyebrows when they're omitted. Instead, we're interested in on-board cameras to use for remote monitoring or time-lapse creation to post on social media. We're interested in multicolor prints. We're interested in print recovery intelligence after power interruptions. We're interested in print speed, wobble-correction algorithms, and high extruder temps to run exotic filaments. Feature sets are expanding and it's really up to you to decide how far you want to take it. If you're still unsure of where to start, check out our more in-depth breakdown of what to look for and how to choose a 3D Printer.

Analysis and Test Results

All in all, each printer was subject to about 45 tests, ranging from an extensive physical print lineup to assessing customer support by calling in with a fake (or, in some cases, real) troubleshooting question. Each metric was weighted according to overall importance, and the combination of scores ultimately reveals both objectively and subjectively how each printer stacked up against the competition. We can see exactly where each one excelled and where others displayed less-than-stellar performance.

What's the Best Value?

We've decided to give two awards for value, one to each major printer type: UV-cured resin and FDM. There are great performing offerings on both sides that are affordable, thankfully. In the resin sector, we really like the Anycubic Photon Mono 2. Resin printers tend to be cheaper than FDM in the first place, ostensibly due to a fundamentally simpler build with fewer moving parts. The Mono 2 returns a great Print Quality score paired with a relatively good Ease of Use score. This pairing is fairly rare with resin printers (such as the Elegoo Mars 4), since the post-curing process is a huge pain. But the Mono 2 managed it, and for that, it earns our respect.

FDM printers are far more popular, so the competition in this arena is stiffer. The humble Entina Tina2 stole our hearts here. Print quality is just ok, but it's intended as a beginner's and kid's printing option, and in that way, it is perfect: a teeny tiny printer for a teeny tiny printer. This guy is small enough, though, that it surely won't be appropriate for every user out there. Instead, you may want to fork over a bit more cash for the better performing FlashForge Adventurer 5M or AnkerMake M5C, which have plenty of value to offer in their own rights.

Print Quality

Print quality is the highest weighted rating metric of our review at 40%. Each test model print in our suite was chosen to judge a specific aspect of quality. Many of the models can be used to evaluate both types of printers, with a few chosen specifically to showcase the extra level of intricacies available with resin printing. Our FDM tests all ran PLA (a plastic made from corn starch) with 0.4mm nozzles at 0.25mm layer heights. One test, the Benchy test, uses a benchmark tugboat model that is chosen because of the combination of challenges it presents for many printers.

Benchy Build Time

Product	Benchy Build Time
FlashForge Adventurer 5M	26.80
AnkerMake M5C	36.00
Bambu Lab A1 Mini	44.00
Bambu Lab P1P	45.30
Prusa MK4	45.30
Elegoo Neptune 4 Pro	47.60
AnkerMake M5	56.90
Entina Tina2	91.00
Creality Ender 3	112.30
ELEGOO Mars 4	142.90

To start, Surface Quality was assessed primarily through our Vase and XYZ Calibration Cube models, with some help from the Benchy tugboat as well. The Bambu Lab products, with the A1 mini and P1P scoring 8.5 and 9 out of 10 respectively, were particularly great at navigating the flat sides, sharp corners, and inset lettering that the cube contains. A couple of other FDM models did well here, the Tina2 and Creality Ender 3, although they did not score particularly well in other metrics. Both resin printers in our lineup did fantastically with the cube, along with the resin-specific lattice skull.

The Vase model is more of a specialty consideration for FDM. The idea is to execute a print with a single wall thickness in a continuous spiral, meant to show the consistency of extrusion. Many units ended up with holes and imperfections (the Ender-3 and Adventurer 5M chief among them), while the Bambu Lab twins and Prusa MK4 resulted in near flawless thin walls.

Our Z-tower model is meant to reveal any wobble or instability with taller prints. This time, the AnkerMake twins, M5 and M5C, showed up to win, with some of the more expensive units — the Elegoo Neptune 4 Pro and P1P — showing majorly concerning waves up the sides.

Bridging and Overhangs were judged through the use of a model designed specifically to evaluate these capabilities, and it is one of the tougher tests in our gantlet. Every printer will fail at some point, it's just a matter of how far they can make it. Again, the M5 and M5C plus the P1P did best. Even so, visible issues started around the 40mm span and 60° marks. The Neptune, Tina2, and Adventurer all did much worse, failing at the lowest spans and under well under 60° overhangs.

Print Quality

Product	Benchy	Side Print	Bridging/Overhang	Support
Anycubic Photon Mono 2	8.5	8.5	8	6
Bambu Lab P1P	7	9	7	8
ELEGOO Mars 4	8.5	8.5	8	4
Bambu Lab A1 Mini	7	8.75	6	6.6
AnkerMake M5	7.5	6	7	6.5
AnkerMake M5C	6.5	6.25	8	5
Prusa MK4	6.5	6.25	6	7
Entina Tina2	6	7.5	5.5	6.5
FlashForge Adventurer 5M	5	5	5.5	9
Creality Ender 3	5	6.25	5	6
Elegoo Neptune 4 Pro	4	6	4	3

A separate Stress Test model was used to evaluate the resin printers, which generally don't have any issues with overhangs or gaps since they are formed upside down in a vat of goo and don't have to fight gravity. We were relieved to see that both representatives did well, meaning that in our assessment, the prints produced here are not overly delicate or concerning.

Moving Parts and Clearances is represented by a really clever model created by industrial designer Angus Deveson (AKA Maker's Muse - Thanks, Devon!). It is essentially a rudimentary fidget spinner that only works if all the tight clearances (as low as 0.15mm) resolve correctly. Interestingly, our two best scores were put up by the most and least expensive products in our lineup, the MK4 and Tina2. The Neptune 4 Pro's effort could only be pried apart with tools, while the Ender-3 failed outright with what amounted to a brick.

Similar to the previous test, accuracy was assessed through an exceedingly simple Nickel Calibration model. It's deceivingly tough to get a perfect score here with a print that has enough friction for the nickel to pop in easily but not fall out when picked up. Still, we were a little stumped when we found that scores for almost every printer were incredibly close, much better than the previous test. Even more baffling, the two champions of the previous test were at the bottom of the barrel here, the MK4 and Tina2, together again.

Our Support Removal model is another clever piece of design, with several geometries on several planes and masses of supports in-between each. Scores varied wildly; some supports were easily removable by hand, and some required tools. Some left nearly flawless surfaces at the removal site, some were egregiously rough. The P1P and Adventurer 5M models were top-notch: supports were easy to pop off, and we were left with clean surfaces. The M5 and MK4 also performed well. The Neptune 4 Pro again crashed and burned here, with unforgivable roughness at the removal sites.

This is one metric that theoretically favors resin printers — and indeed, we did see the Mono 2 perform well with an above-average score. Resin prints are brittle, so supports snap away easily normally, and fine resolutions help avoid any 'fat-fingering' at the meeting sites. Strangely, though, the Mars 4 generated terrible supports when run through the slicer, leaving us scratching our heads. When we ran a separate file with pre-generated supports, these removed fantastically.

Overall, we're happy to see that the overall top scoring options are a mix of resin (the Mono 2 and Mars 4) and FDM (P1P and M5C) representatives, which really highlights how far the FDM realm of products has progressed recently. We'll also note that many of the poor results highlighted above shouldn't necessarily be considered deal breakers. A plethora of settings can be dialed in during the print-prep process in each printer's native slicing software (including the support issue highlighted with the Mars 4). With enough time dedicated to sussing out issues, any printer could likely end up a consistently high performer. Our tests are meant to show baseline performance with no setting manipulation to reveal an overall trend.

Ease of Use

Whether you are a beginner or an accomplished maker, you will surely have a more pleasant experience with a machine that doesn't fight you at every turn. The criteria for this metric covers a range of software, user interface, and hardware considerations to paint a complete picture. Ease of use has a weight of 30% of our final scores.

Turning your lovely 3D model into a physical reality starts with the Software that is used to translate the model into code your printer can execute. This software is known as a 'slicer' because that's what it does… it cuts your model into hundreds of thin layers, which are then printed one by one. Each manufacturer generally has their own version, but a standard file format called G-Code is ultimately what most (but not all) printers execute. G-code is generally what slicers export, so 3rd party options are still nearly universally usable. Names like Cura, Lychee Slicer, and Chitubox will be recognized by veterans. That said, to capture the intended experience, our tests are performed using the recommended or preferred slicing program per the manufacturer whenever applicable.

Most slicers have roughly the same features and settings to manipulate, so by and large, the user experience and user interface (UX/UI) are what matters here. AnkerMake Studio and Bambu Studio are our favorites here. Our lead tester, Graham, says of Bambu Studio, “I appreciate being able to print and go when I want, without giving up the ability to change detailed settings” and mentions that the calibration table and power search function for wading through the vast sea of available settings are both wonderful. Graham thinks AnkerMake Studio is probably the best for beginners, though, calling it “simplistic and clean.” He also notes that “it is not as customizable as others, but the main 'knobs' for adjustments are there to use.”

In contrast, Creality Slicer and PrusaSlicer are less polished and more industrial feeling. They'll get the job done, but the programs are less intuitive, and transferring files is slow. For our resin printers, Elegoo recommends the 3rd party Chitubox or Tango, but we ended up using Cura for both the Mars and Neptune products with middling results. AnyCubic Photon Workshop, used with the Mono 2, is a step up, though — resin settings aren't generally as involved as FDM, and it's nice the software didn't try to make it harder than it had to be.

Initial Machine Build Time

Product	Build time out of the box
Bambu Lab A1 Mini	11.00
FlashForge Adventurer 5M	12.00
ELEGOO Mars 4	12.00
AnkerMake M5C	14.00
Bambu Lab P1P	15.00
AnkerMake M5	17.00
Entina Tina2	27.00
Elegoo Neptune 4 Pro	37.00
Creality Ender 3	45.00
Prusa MK4	600.00

Changing gears, we measure Initial Setup of the physical machines, which includes time and ease for the build, any attachments, connection types, and any interaction with interfaces or menus. Pretty commonly, building the units is the easiest part of the whole experience. Most products assemble in 10-20 minutes, from cracking the tape on the box to running the pre-loaded print included with the package. This has clearly been a focus with newer manufacturers who, in our opinion, are aiming to capture more of the novice crowds as popularity grows instead of attempting to steal away grizzled veterans from brands they're loyal to. Indeed, the longer builds tend to be from older popular brands, including the Ender-3 at 45 minutes and the Prusa MK4 at a whopping 10 hours! The MK4 is such a project that Prusa charges an extra ~$300 on an already pricy machine if you want to purchase it pre-built.

Running your print files has traditionally been the domain of the common thumb drive (or sometimes a microSD). You load the g-code from your slicer, pop the drive in a port on the back, and navigate heavily pixelated menus to find your pruned file name. Most printers will still support this interface, which is fine. The Elegoo products, Mono 2, and Tina2 all work this way exclusively. But we're excited to see a shift to running prints directly from the slicer through a hardwire cable with the printer or a wifi connection. Wifi can be touchy, but with these products, being able to run files without a physical interface or remotely monitor through a synced app can be a significant usability win. And yes, you guessed it - the ever-overachieving Bambu lab and Ankermake products include this functionality.

The on-board interface with the unit does vary significantly these days. Some products choose to include lovely full-color touchscreens (AnkerMake M5), while others cut down to the bare minimum. The (M5C) even dispensed with it altogether, likely as a cost-saving measure. Usually, printers land somewhere in the middle, with a smattering of old-school pixelated screens navigable with a push knob or smaller touchscreens.

A printer's print bed is an especially critical area to get right. We'll look at bed-specific technologies in the next metric, but a huge component of what makes one printer easier to use over another is leveling the print bed and the effectiveness of its heating cycle. Both of these directly and critically affect print adhesion to the plate itself, which is perhaps the most common contributor to a print's success or failure. It's so important that most printers now include auto-leveling procedures and advanced heating patterns.

In OG printers, leveling the bed used to be accomplished by manually directing the nozzle to 4-5 places around the print bed and manually adjusting height screws underneath by squashing a piece of printer paper until you had the right friction. Seriously. The Ender-3 still requires this procedure, and I'm sure tens of thousands of makers and tinkerers around the world still do this before an important print. Thankfully, much of our lineup has embraced the future with auto-leveling features, with only Elegoo, the Ender-3, and the Mono 2 opting not to include it.

Also related is the importance of a heated bed (for FDM only; resin doesn't have this issue). The printer's 'hot end', basically the extruder components that melt the plastic filament and push it onto your build-in-progress, is equipped with some combination of powerful fans that aim to immediately cool a layer as soon as it leaves the nozzle. But that only works so well, and a print, once it's 25-50 layers in, will tend to start cooling unevenly and deform. Ironically, the solution is a heated bed to attempt to keep the whole part at an even temperature until complete — industry standard seems to have settled at 60°C. Bed Temperature is thus a critical spec to evaluate.

Bed Temp Change

Product	Difference of Bed Temp (Set @60C)
Bambu Lab P1P	1.10
FlashForge Adventurer 5M	2.60
AnkerMake M5C	3.10
Prusa MK4	3.50
AnkerMake M5	4.00
Creality Ender 3	4.40
Bambu Lab A1 Mini	5.00
Elegoo Neptune 4 Pro	12.80

We use a thermal camera to reveal the pattern of heating elements built into the bed structure, revealing cool spots and the extent of coverage. Most candidates show a relatively even pattern, though the Neptune 4 Pro has decided to overly complicate things and design in an 'Intelligent Segmented Heatbed'. This means only the center heats unless the print is large enough for the outer ring to activate. The only FDM printer we tested without a heated bed is the Tina2, but we will assert that we had no adhesion issues through the whole print test cycle. It's so small, and the boxy structure must give some amount of heat control, so it should not be a problem in this specific case.

3D Printer Ease of Use Ratings

Product	Slicer/Software	Initial Setup
AnkerMake M5	9.00	9
AnkerMake M5C	9.00	9
Anycubic Photon Mono 2	8.00	10
Bambu Lab P1P	9.00	9
Bambu Lab A1 Mini	9.00	8
Entina Tina2	7.00	10
Elegoo Mars 4	6.00	10
FlashForge Adventurer 5M	7.00	8
Elegoo Neptune 4 Pro	5.00	7
Creality Ender 3	5.00	6
Prusa MK4	6.00	4

When the tally was done, we saw some familiar faces at the top of the list and one surprising face at the bottom. Our Bambu Lab and AnkerMake representatives excel in this metric, doing most things very well. This is also solidly the domain of the quaint Tina2, a big reason it earned an award for Best Value FDM Printer. Older and, shall we say, rough around the edges, printers like the Ender-3 and Prusa MK4 sunk. But rock bottom is saved for the ELEGOO Mars 4, despite a perfect 10/10 score for ease of setup. What gives?

Once again, it's a fundamental reality of resin printers that they are annoying and tedious to run. UV-curable resin is an odorous, goopy liquid. All parts of the process should be done in a well-ventilated room with gloves and plenty of work surface protection. Pouring resin into a fresh tank is all fine and dandy, but pulling it out for storage or to swap colors requires a rather involved cleaning. Prepping and running a print is no harder than FDM, but once the print is finished, you will have to follow a whole post-processing procedure, letting excess resin drip off, washing it, and then post-curing it with a UV source to fully harden. These steps are usually done in dedicated chambers, available at extra cost. Why, then, does the Mono 2 score better than the Mars? Both showed out with a perfect 10/10 initial setup scores, but the superior slicer/prep component is the advantage in the Mono's court. This is a major driving factor in our giving the Best Value Resin Printer award to the Mono 2 over the Mars, despite inferior specs in other areas.

Print Capabilities

Speaking of specs, much of our Print Capabilities score is driven by pure specs and measurements, along with some technological and upgrade considerations. This metric accounts for 20% of overall scores.

A lot of attention is given to Build Volume in the market, and in some ways, we agree — bigger can be better. Not every user is primarily printing trinkets, and at the very least, you don't want size to be the limiting factor in what you can create. Large prints can be printed in sections and glued together, of course, but limiting those seams and processing work can be reason enough to choose a larger printer. Many of our higher-ranked models, including the Bambu Lab P1P and AnkerMake M5, are capable of large builds, and this may be one of the only good reasons to seriously consider the Neptune 4 Pro. The Tina2 gets dinged here, obviously; it is designed primarily for small toy prints.

Measured Print Bed Size Difference

Product	Percent different (smaller than spec)
Bambu Lab P1P	0.26
Creality Ender 3	0.17
Anycubic Photon Mono 2	0.14
AnkerMake M5C	0.13
AnkerMake M5	0.08
FlashForge Adventurer 5M	0.03
Entina Tina2	0.02
Elegoo Neptune 4 Pro	0.01
Elegoo Mars 4	0.00
Prusa MK4	0.00
Bambu Lab A1 Mini	0.00

We noticed a concerning trend, however: Not every printer was able to print to the full advertised manufacturer claims, varying significantly even with products from the same MFG. We tested X/Y dimensions by simply loading a frame the exact size each printer claimed. A few contenders were able to achieve full advertised dimensions (phew!) — the MK4, A1 mini, and Mars 4. Major discrepancies were seen with the M5C, Mono 2, Ender-3, and most shocking of all, our beloved P1P, which was only capable of 73.85% of what it should be able to. Yikes.

Resin printers are a little different. Their build volumes have historically been limited technologically through a combination of the resolution and size of their LCD screens and the complexity of the light source and mirror system inside. The Photon Mono 2's 137mm x 80mm confirmed max build plate dimensions per our testing is not far off from the 153mm x 77mm confirmed build size of the Mars 4. But the resolution is the kicker. The 6.6", 4096 x 2560 pixel resolution on the Mono 2 results in a 35µm precision (details as fine as roughly 1/3 the width of a human hair will resolve!) Now, that is very good, but the Mars 4's 7-inch, 8520x4320 resolution screen results in an incredible 18µm precision — twice as good as the Mono 2.

Build Plate Tech paints a happier picture. We're pleased to see such progress in this arena in recent years beyond the heating capabilities already discussed. The standard now seems to be a textured surface of some kind, including laser etching, and commonly with a wonderful coating called PEI. Additionally, many printers are shipping with removable, magnetic, and flexible plates which really helps with print removal. These advances, along with the auto bed-leveling and heating inclusions we commonly see, mean that print adhesion and warping issues are ultimately going the way of the dinosaur for FDM.

The only real thing to highlight here is the hilarious and disappointing Ender-3 situation. Their 'carborundum glass build plate' is heated but not flexible. It is removable, though, officially held in place by 4 run-of-the-mill binder clips (yes, it comes with them). And those clips do get in the way while printing fairly often, so model placement planning in your slicer is key if working with an Ender-3. This is the only unit we felt that we still needed to use the outdated glue stick and masking tape techniques common before adhesion was largely solved by the industry.

With the rise in popularity of exotic and specialty FDM filaments, material compatibility is another important factor. It's exciting to see wild options like Wood PLA, Flexible TPU, and PETG-CF (with short carbon fiber strands added for extra strength) gain wider adoption. These materials require higher melting temperatures than standard PLA, so filament compatibility is largely a function of the Maximum Extruder Temperature of your printer.

PLA is generally run around 210-230°C, easily covered even by our lowest temp printer (Tina2). Some PETG filaments need a minimum of 250°C for a clean extrusion, so printers capable of 280-300°C (like the M5C and Neptune 4 Pro) will be interesting to anyone looking to push the limits.

Of course, large builds and specialty materials aren't all prospective buyers are interested in. On-board cameras, for remote monitoring or time-lapse creation, are really nice to have and are becoming more common. Both Bambu Lab products and the M5 have cameras, so start there if that's a must-have for you. Many manufacturers are starting to focus on speed, but in our opinion, the jury's still out on if that's as important as it sounds. Speed should only be adjusted after every other setting is dialed in, and we never see printers running close to their maximum advertised speed. What's the point of saving 12 hours on a 36-hour print if it looks terrible? Multicolor prints are becoming popular and only a few officially developed solutions for that have been released. Bambu Lab products often have this ability, including the Bambu Lab A1 Mini, which is small, yes, but also the most affordable multicolor printer that we have found to date.

Our winners here are the same high performers that have come out on top in previous metrics: the A1 mini powerhouse and P1P, and the M5 and M5C. They have the bells and whistles and top-notch specs that the resin printers don't (i.e. can't).

Support

The final metric in our tests accounts for the last 10% of the total score. 3D printers are a relatively complex technology, the details of which are unfamiliar to most people, and the quality of resources available and the helpfulness of a manufacturer can make all the difference.

A good score can be heavily influenced by something as simple as having an outstanding manual or as involved as a fully dedicated community of passionate print fanatics. Not surprisingly, Bambu Lab and AnkerMake both impressed us with the quality in both arenas. A flurry of videos and step-by-step guides as seen with the M5 should be the new standard to chase. The same goes for the bustling, community-supported Bambu Lab Wiki. Bravo.

Warranties vary, but nothing especially surprising stands out. 14-day or 30-day money-back guarantees are common, with roughly 1-year warranties for MFG defects, etc. A few companies, like Elegoo, go more granular with their warranties, specifying 3 or 6-month coverages instead for parts that tend to wear out faster.

Speaking of which, Elegoo was really the only manufacturer we had trouble with in other areas as well. Our first Neptune 4 was a lemon, and correspondence was so slow and frustrating we ended up buying a second unit to keep testing on track. Even with the new unit, a firmware update and several restarts were needed to prevent crashes mid-build. Their support team did end up solving our issue but we feel it's important our readers know about our experience.

Chinese builders are common (Elegoo, Creality, Bambu Lab, AnkerMake, Anycubic, Flashforge, and Entina are all Chinese brands). This is not an issue in and of itself of course, but any US-based buyers will want to know that troubleshooting or warranty communication with them is usually done exclusively through email, with at least a day (or night) between communications. For the record, Prusa is Czech-based, and US users have access to 24-hour chat or email support from the company.

Conclusion

Hopefully, after reading this review, you've picked up a few valuable nuggets of advice and feel like you've been pointed in the right direction. We buy everything so you don't have to and report back with our honest and measurable test results. The right product is out there for every Maker, Print Enthusiast, Designer, Additive Manufacturing Technician, Filamentalist, Spoolsmith, and 3Der stumbling on our modest corner of the internet. Happy Printing.